Off the beaten path: a slower, summer side of Český Krumlov

Hornobransky Pond in Cesky Krumlov

Český Krumlov may be famed for its Renaissance charm, but beyond the busy center lies a more local side of town – quiet lanes, hidden corners, and views known mostly to residents. Step off the main streets and you’ll find a slower, authentic Krumlov, where you’ll meet more locals than selfie sticks.

Horní Brána

Horní Brána is a residential quarter with mostly early 20th-century houses, offering a pleasant retreat from the bustle of the center. It takes its name from the former town gate, which once stood here as part of Krumlov’s fortifications until 1839. From Horní Brána you can walk up to Křížová hora, a hill with sweeping views over the town and surrounding countryside. Locals also love the Hornobranský pond, where you can go swimming, let kids enjoy the playground with a climbing wall, or try out the volleyball and beach-volleyball courts. For a snack, head to Buňka near the pond and town hall – a summer bistro serving artisanal ice cream, cakes, lemonade, specialty coffee, and light savory bites.

Plešivec

Another pleasant walk leads up the Plešivec steps to the district known as Plešivecké předměstí. Its name comes from the word for a bare, treeless hill. Today Plešivec has two faces: on the slope above the Vltava you’ll find small old houses, while the 1970s apartment blocks with around 1,000 flats form the newer side of the neighborhood. From the viewpoint near Plešivecké Square you can enjoy a fine panorama of the castle and old town, then head down Plešivecká Street. Stop for coffee and an excellent kremrole (a traditional pastry) at Kafírna. On your way back, take the route through the rose garden near Plešivecké Square, past the synagogue, and return via Linecká Street.

Town Park and the Schiele Garden House

Just a few minutes from the center lies one of Krumlov’s most relaxing green spaces – the Town Park on the left bank of the Vltava. It offers shade under tall trees, a playground, and even a river access point for summer dips. Its history reaches back to Jesuit times, and the park has kept its calm, well-kept character ever since. It’s an ideal spot for a stroll, a picnic, or simply a quiet pause away from the crowds. Following the river, you’ll soon reach another green oasis: the garden house of Egon Schiele. The grassy area is perfect for sitting or cooling off by the Vltava. In summer, the ground floor hosts a small café, and you can also see the rooms where the Austrian painter stayed in 1911 and created many works inspired by Krumlov.

Vyšný and the Vyšenské Hills

If you’re craving nature, head for the Vyšenské Hills. This protected area offers a gentle two-kilometer educational trail with varied landscapes and views of Krumlov and the surrounding ridges. The village of Vyšný lies just 2.5 km northwest of the center and is easy to reach on foot or by car. A friendly stop here is the playground with the bistro U Pepy, open Friday to Sunday, where you’ll find a relaxed atmosphere and dishes inspired by world cuisine – think quesadillas, shakshuka, or a sweet treat.

Kvítkův Dvůr

A quiet walk through or alongside the castle gardens takes you to Kvítkův Dvůr, a former castle farmstead dating back to the 13th century. Today it is privately owned and offers guided tours of its interiors, decorated with unique Rococo paintings by František Jakub Prokyš. Just 600 meters west of the gardens, it remains largely undiscovered by visitors – precisely why it’s worth seeking out. On your way there or back, you can stop for a coffee or refresh yourself with a local Krumlov beer at the café of the Castle Riding Hall.

Raven Rock and the Ferrata Havranka

Just minutes from the center, behind the grounds of the former brewery, rises a cliff above the river that has become popular with via ferrata climbers. Three secured climbing routes lead to the top, one of them suitable for beginners and children. From above you get an unusual view of the town and the winding Vltava. After the climb, reward yourself at the original Bistro Garáž, known for its excellent pelmeni. The bistro also doubles as a rental for climbing gear.

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